How do I use my molds for Hot Process Soapmaking? Keeping cold-process soap properly insulated is important
when pouring into individual 3 and 4 ounce cavities. Heat loss can be
a problem due to a large surface area relative to a small volume of soap.
... print | close How do I use my molds for Hot Process Soapmaking? Keeping cold-process soap properly insulated is important
when pouring into individual 3 and 4 ounce cavities. Heat loss can be
a problem due to a large surface area relative to a small volume of soap.
This heat loss can retard saponification. One solution to this potential
problem is an elevated pour temperature in the range of 115-125 degrees
F. Another method involves pre-cooking the soap so that it's thoroughly
saponified before being poured into the molds. This is hot-process soapmaking.
What are the advantages of hot-processing? One, the soap
doesn't need to be insulated since it's neutral when spooned into the
molds. It just needs to cool and harden, which takes 1-2 hours. Two, neutral
soap is much gentler on dyes and fragrances- you'll find both stay "truer".
I introduced a simple hot-process technique in my book Making
Transparent Soap. This method can be tailored to any formulation. The
steps are as follows:
1. Use two pots for soapmaking: one, your soap pot, and
two, a kettle large enough to comfortably contain your soap pot. An enamel
five-gallon canning pot is ideal for most situations. This second kettle
will become the bottom of a double boiler. Fill it with 3-5 inches of
water.
2. Stir your soap until traced. Meanwhile, bring the water
in the large kettle to a slow boil.
3. After tracing, place the soap pot inside the kettle.
Keep the water at a gentle boil; cover if possible to retain heat.
4. Cook your soap for 1 3/4 hours. During this time it should
become a soft translucent salve. Translucency is a sign that the soap
is neutralizing.
Stir briefly 2 or 3 times during cooking to ensure even
heat distribution throughout the soap mass.
5. After 1 3/4 hours the soap will be neutral. Dye, fragrance and spoon into molds. If the soap seems too thick to work with, thin
with a few ounces of alcohol. Start with 2-3 ounces; gradually add
more if needed. Pure ethanol (Everclear), 90%-99% isopropyl or vodka all
work well. When dividing the soap up for different fragrances and colors,
keep the unused portion hot, or it begins hardening as it cools. Hardened
soap can be "remelted" over a double boiler. And finally, any air pockets
in the molded soap? These can be removed by gently tapping the mold on
the counter top. Another method for removing air bubbles is to cover the
top of the soap-filled cavities with a sheet of plastic film. With the
palm of your hand, press the soap gently but firmly into the cavity. print | close |